Wine guy Lyndon Kubis has poured a respectable quota in his time. Along with partner Renton Carlyle-Taylor, his wine-bar/shop mini-empire includes The Alps, Toorak Cellars, Milton Wine Shop, The Hills and of course, The Moon, a snug 75-seater in Collingwood.

Just to be clear, this is not a moon-themed bar. Architect Camilla Burke and I am Not Mason can take credit for the deftly minimal fit-out that uses lots of natural materials including concrete, stone and stained wood, plus the veritable calling card solar eclipse wall lights.

There are around 400 wines to either take away or consume in-store (for added corkage), with 20 rotating by-the-glass options that are thoughtfully curated. Sidekicks include a small selection of delicate wine-bar fare, such as toasties (filled with, in one instance, pulled brisket and jalapeno), charcuterie (from nearby Meatsmith) and the ever-agreeable cheese plate. More considerable “snacks” include lamb ribs with fennel, pork ribs with chilli, and saganaki.

Kubis is particular about his wine. For him, it’s about region and environment, compared to, say, the reputation or hand of the winemaker.

Chin chin.