Despite now taking bookings, lining up at Chin Chin is still somewhat of a Melbourne rite of passage. Especially for out-of-towners.

But American singer-songwriter Phoebe Bridgers – who we spotted in Fitzroy around this time last year – did one better on Tuesday night.

In town for Laneway Festival this weekend, and a sold-out sideshow at Margaret Court Arena last night, the woman behind such bangers to bawl to as Motion Sickness told the rapturous crowd at her headline gig that she had “made some phone calls” to try and get into the quintessentially Melbourne Southeast Asian diner.

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Instead of a table, though, what she got was an invite to a private dinner at eccentric executive chef Ben Cooper’s house. She went, she ate, and she raved about it onstage.

“I love this town!” Bridgers proclaimed during the set. And if the volume in Margaret Court Arena – and Cooper’s dinner party – is anything to go by, the feeling is mutual.