Pastore is a 50-seat Italian restaurant that borrows some influence from contemporary Australian cuisine. The simplicity of this vision is in stark contrast to the grand Hotel Chadstone Melbourne MGallery, in which the restaurant sits.

The menu has a clear focus on wood-fired cooking and house-made pastas. You might start with small plates such as gooey bruschetta served with green tomato and prosciutto di San Daniele, or Wagyu carpaccio supported by horseradish and watercress. The other side of the Pastore coin – the open flame – informs the larger dishes. Wood-grilled Victoria Hill lamb loin marries with baby leeks and an anchovy sauce. Osso bucco ragu is cooked on the flame, too. It’s filed into cannelloni with confit tomato and buffalo ricotta. For dessert, fluffy bombolini might come filled with berries and yoghurt sorbet. A decadent chocolate tart lands on a bed of basilic anglaise sauce.

The wine list focuses on Australian examples of Italian varietals. Or find an extensive cocktail list that marries Italian spirits with Australian botanicals.

The space is open, with touches of brass, natural stone, reeded glass and timber. The passion for fire is clear, and from the right seat you can see the grill’s flames licking up over the counter of the open kitchen.