SPQR is a wood-fired pizza joint from David Mackintosh, one of the guys behind MoVida , Pei Modern , Rosa’s Canteen and Lee Ho Fook.

Designed by Nick Harding from HA Architects, the Liverpool Street restaurant revolves around the wood-fired oven, which was custom-made by an Italian family in Thomastown. It has a solid concrete base; an igloo-shaped dome built from bricks; is covered with insulation and a layer of cement; and cooks pizzas at 400 degrees.

The pizzas – sold by the slice at the front of the venue and by the wheel at the back – have a sourdough base that’s fermented overnight, then blasted in the wood-fired furnace until the crust crisps and blisters. All the classics are available as well as a couple of originals from the SPQR pizzaiolos, such as the Anchovy with San Marzano, anchovy, olives, chilli and oregano. And the Salsiccia with house-made pork-fennel sausage, potato and fior di latte.

There are a couple of sides that make use of the oven – such as pulse and grain salads, and baked chunks of pumpkin. Then there are simple desserts such as house-made tiramisu and panna cotta with seasonal fruit.

No pizza would be complete without bira e vino , so there’s reds and whites from the King Valley and beers by Stone & Wood and Mountain Goat on tap, plus a thoughtful selection of Italian longnecks.