A sophisticated design by Clare Cousins Architects spotlights the open kitchen and adjacent charcuterie display (Nomad Sydney is renowned for its in-house charcuterie program). A frosted waiter’s station anchors the 100-seat space, which is surrounded by tables and curved brown banquettes. An intimate private dining room is separated by a walk-in wine fridge.
Former Ezard chef Brendan Katich leads the kitchen, and he’s replicated Nomad Sydney’s focus on open-flame cooking and locally sourced produce. Around half a dozen of Sydney’s mainstay dishes feature (including the kingfish ceviche with avocado, finger lime and coriander crackers), while the rest of the menu is dedicated to new items and hybrid versions of old favourites.
A baked ricotta made from Messina jersey milk that’s served with Ortiz anchovies and fire-roasted peppers has been pinned as a Melbourne signature. Large dishes might include aged Ravens Creek Farm pork cutlets, roasted over fire and served with golden-raisin-and-caper salsa. Desserts play to nostalgic Australiana. Expect a take on the lamington with aerated chocolate mousse, coconut sorbet, woodfired blackberries (deglazed with sherry vinegar) and charred, fresh coconut grated on top.
Group beverage director, Ged Bellis, has created a wine list that champions small Australian growers and producers. Much of it is Victorian, but there are bottles from France and Italy, too.