Chef and restaurateur Jessi Singh is well known for his Indian restaurants. He’s the man behind Dhaba at the Mill, Horn Please, and Babu Ji – which now have different owners – and Daughter in Law and Sydney’s Don’t Tell Aunty. They all champion his home cuisine. But Mrs Singh is different. It combines Indian with Australian, American and pan-European influences.

The star of the menu is the kulcha, a type of flatbread. It’s cooked on a hot grill and comes out thinner than tandoor-baked naan. Here they’re topped with taleggio and truffle oil, or coloured turmeric-yellow and topped with blue cheese and caramelised onion. There’s also unleavened pratha bread, which is crispier, served with 15-month-aged comté and mango chutney on top and house-smoked butter.

The rest of the menu is made up of small plates. The New England lobster roll is accompanied by potato crisps dusted with curry powder. Roast duck is wrapped in buttery parantha (a savoury pancake) with a kohlrabi slaw. And there’s tuna crudo with compressed watermelon; Tibetan pork momo dumplings; and a tandoori corn cob with masala spices.

At lunch there’s only one thing on the menu: a thali, which lets you sample a bit of everything. On an ornate gold platter, bowls of lamb rogan josh, butter chicken, goat curry, black-lentil dal and raita are arranged around spinach fritters, naan, fragrant rice and a crisp pappadum. For vegetarians there’s a coconut curry, creamy paneer makhani and a chickpea curry.

A champagne cart roams the room, and you can take any of the 220 wines on the menu home, too. Cocktails change with the seasons, but they’re usually fresh and fruity. The Shimla Cup is Singh’s pick: a bourbon-based drink with a hint of spice from chai-masala syrup.

Updated: July 28th, 2022

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