Stepping out of the elevator tucked away to the side of the Grand Hyatt, it’s as though you have entered Aladdin’s cave of wonders. Momo, Greg Malouf’s gastronomic harem, is located in a basement converted into a plush and luxurious space. Large, cushioned chairs with armrests offset hypnotising ferns and chocolate carpet, while a linear chandelier refracts soft yellows and pinks. Velvet covered screens give nearly every table its own space and privacy.

The dome shaped lamps on each table illuminate the modern Middle Eastern and Mediterranean dishes. The sharing menus offer the most value, allowing you to sample the subtle flavours that are a mix of sweet and sour. Interesting dishes might include a lentil-burghul served with roasted duck, the cardamom bacon accompanying the quail in dukha crumbs, or a simple side of pomegranate molasses served with bread.

The service is impressive and there are welcome extras like the rose-water soaked hand towels and hair straighteners in the bathroom if you are feeling a little frizzy between courses.

The dessert mezza is extravagant, with lemon and orange ice-cream, Persian saffron tart with passionfruit curd and mascarpone cheese, and the rich chocolate and Kaluah cake with dates and the Turkish crescent powdered on top, finishes off this magic carpet ride.