Sydneysiders may have had first taste of Martin Boetz’s Longrain in Surry Hills, but Melburnians can rightfully stake claim to this favourite modern Thai restaurant.

Powerful, fresh flavour combinations fill the small yet simple menu that's responsible for keeping the dining room full of patrons every night of the week.

At the entrance of the dark yet chic restaurant on Little Bourke Street, the heavy wooden doors invite patrons into the impressive, dimly lit dining room. For a drink or two start at the bar, a convenient place to unwind over expertly crafted cocktails.

Efficient staff will recommend pairings and combinations of dishes but the one entree you must try is betel leaves stuffed with sashimi trout. Main dishes are large and designed to be shared on communal tables (long or round), banquet style. Crispy seafood, rich lamb and vibrant vegetable curries seem like the right choice on top of fluffy white rice, but a trip to Longrain may also include dishes such as crispy whole fillets of fish and spicy peanut papaya salads. One indulgence might be the crispy pork in XO sauce that can put any Thai grandmother to shame.

Subtle yet unique combinations suggest that Thai food is not just a combination of fish sauce, lemongrass and herbs. Forget everything you know about sickly Asian sweets and save room for dessert too – the sample platter is a treat for anyone with a sweet tooth. Delicate sorbets and ice-creams include flavours like roasted peanut and sticky black rice.

At the forefront of contemporary Thai dining, Longrain is elegantly casual with sophisticatedly crafted food in an impressive city setting.

Updated: August 7th, 2020

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