Fusion cuisine is best left back in the ’70s, right? Maybe. But we’d also argue this: in the hands of a skilled chef it can be clever, delicious, surprising and remain respectful to the cuisines it draws from.

Malaysian Chinese Australian Esca Khoo, who worked at Dinner by Heston and Noma’s Sydney pop-up, is that kind of chef. At Tyga his menu results in dishes like tom yum burrata, the creamy cheese served with king prawns, heirloom tomatoes and fluffy doughnuts like the ones you’d find on Yaowarat – the main road of Bangkok’s Chinatown – that are built to be dragged through the sauce. A bright hinava (Borneo’s take on ceviche) could land with swordfish, green mango and sea grapes.

The room is similarly freewheeling. The subtle 1970s Bangkok cues never tip into theme-park territory. There’s cherry-wood panelling, olive leather, glass bricks softening the light, and vinyl stacked above the open kitchen. DJs play disco, funk and soul, putting Tyga somewhere between a dinner venue and the start of a night out. It’s not clubby, but definitely not quiet.

The drinks follow that same rhythm. Expect a coffee-led riff on a Negroni, a tom-yum-inspired mezcal and rum number, and a creamy, tea-driven take on an Alexander. There’re also zero-proof options, tap beers and wines by the glass.