Cordelia, a seafood-focused restaurant from the team behind Prahran wine bar Don’s, brings European sensibility, local sustainable produce and a laid-back charm to Carlton’s north.

Led by Don’s former head chef Josh Norris, the ever-changing menu is dependent on the day’s freshly caught selection. There might also be tartare, made with beef and wallaby sourced from Norris’s family farm.

The wine list complements its seafood-focused menu while leaving room for exploration, allowing diners to choose between their selection of local or international bottles.

Soft lime-washed walls with a finish containing grains of sand – matched with scallop-edged coasters and plates with softly curved edges – nod to the sea. Downstairs, a compact basement bar offers a moodier, more intimate counterpart to the ground-floor dining room where you can begin or end your night with a glass.