Aspiring to simply create a great neighbourhood bistro, top chef Stuart McVeigh (London’s Fitzrovia, The Botanical, Fenix, No. 35) has done just that with Union Food & Wine, his first solo venture.
Classy yet approachable, Union’s spacious, light-filled fit-out and seasonally driven, modern European menu welcomes diners with a balanced mix of the fancy and the familiar. Breakfast might be gingerbread hotcakes with poached quince and whipped ricotta or a classic fried big breakfast, all realised via the deft skills of a serious pro. It might be a big call, but we reckon McVeigh’s corned beef, creamed leek and mustard toastie has the mark of a cult classic written all over it.
The combined lunch-dinner menu showcases some more refined offerings, while still maintaining a relaxed, rustic air and the cracking wine list and gracious, switched-on service comes courtesy of gun ex-Lake House sommelier James Bone.