Adriana Agricola lasted 15 years in New York before the 50-year-old dress factory she grew up in finally called her back. Throughout the ’70s, ’80s and ’90s Adriana’s fashion-designer mum and pattern-cutting dad used it to produce clothing after emigrating from Italy. In 2016 she transformed it into Sartoria, a cafe decorated with sewing machines, fabric, mannequins and other relics from her childhood.
Chef Jason Shiong’s (ex-Longrain) menu is progressive-but-approachable. It includes dishes such as hash-brown waffles with poached eggs. The crunchy, yolk-absorbing stack is encircled by dabs of goat’s cheese and pureed peas made by on-site chef Luke Hawkins.
Lunch is diverse. There’s beetroot and lentil salad; a Wagyu cheeseburger; ricotta gnocchi; and eight-hour lamb shoulder with herby salsa verde.
At the big communal table you can see where Adriana helped roll out patterns as a child. It’s inlaid with blueprints for dresses. In the centre of the table there’s a glass tower filled with old buttons and brooches rather than the cold-drip coffee it's meant for.
Beans are from young roaster Where’s Marcel? and are also batch-brewed or pumped through a bright orange La Marzocco. For a stiff drink check out the range of brunch cocktails and aperitivos.
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