A lot of Chinese food in Melbourne is Cantonese. But Rowling Wu struggled to find one Cantonese dish that defined her home city of Guangzhou: silky, cheung fun rice rolls. So, she launched the first Australian outpost of Liyin Rice Roll Master, a major franchise from Guangzhou.

Some restaurants rely on store-bought rice rolls or pre-ground flour, but the Liyin team prepares each batch to order using from-scratch ingredients and a traditional method. Liyin offers variations beyond the classic pork, beef, or char siu you may have tried at yum cha. Other options include black truffle and prawn, beef and cheese, and a red rice version rolled around crisp prawns.

But Liyin serves more than just cheung fun. Come for an outstanding beef hor fun, or the seafood congee inspired by Guangzhou’s river-fishing community.