A great gozleme is an art. Like the airy storeys of a real croissant, each layer of pastry needs to be rolled by hand and stretched out finely, then folded so it’s crisp from end to end. It’s a time-consuming task, and one that’s been perfected at Goz City's two locations.

The venues are owned by Taylan Aksoy, the young restaurateur behind South Melbourne’s Koy. Goz City does for Turkish takeaway what Jimmy Grants does for Greek.

It’s more finished than your average gozleme van: there’s Budvar Pilsner on tap, Effes in a bottle and an enormous Synesso machine pumps out 5 Senses coffee. On Friday nights the bartenders mix up a selection of Espresso Martinis.

With women laughing as they stretch out pastry, and baristas needling the smart young waiters, there are good vibrations from the get-go.

But, as the name clearly suggests, the main game’s the goz. Spiced and seasoned using fresh herbs, there are four standard options: herb beef; herb chicken; cheese and spinach; and mushroom and veg. There are also rotating specials which test-out non-traditional gözleme, such as Moroccan lamb, braised beef, or shank off the bone.

Sure, it’s simple, but it’s a pleasure. Fresh pastry straight from the grill, the slight funk of cheese and a bottle of beer doesn’t need any adornment.

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Updated: December 13th, 2019

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