With each new venue, Hootan Heydari and Jono Hill moved ever closer to Collingwood. A Minor Place flirted with the Coburg/Brunswick divide. Wide Open Road was Brunswick proper. Heartattack and Vine jumped another postcode to Carlton.

Bedford Street is on Johnston Street, Collingwood and used to be Czech restaurant Heart of Europe. Its vintage light fittings, a brass-rimmed bar and a judicious use of neon is Ridley Scott’s Bladerunner interpreted by Melbourne architect Nicky Adams (really). There’s a lot of natural light and a lot of glass.

Front-of-house veteran Mark Jacobson is a partner, as is chef Daniel Dobra. His time at the Royal Mail, The Beaufort Bar and Brutale is distilled into ultra-savoury dishes such as cannelloni stuffed with duck-liver parfait, cut with fresh coffee grounds, and an inspired update on the ’80s favourite Devils on Horseback.

Iterations of his menu are available throughout the day; breakfast might consist of a crab-and-trout omelette, and lunch is almost definitely a hot-chicken sandwich – a crisp piece of chook and slaw between two thick wedges of white bread.

Being an all-day joint, coffee and cocktails are available at any hour – be it bacon-washed bourbon with pine syrup, lemon and egg-white; a pint of Powerstance Pilsner; a glass of Alchemy Syrah or a mug of Wide Open Road’s specialty filter blend.

Updated: August 6th, 2018

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