A 12-minute walk from Los Hermanos, Mercadito is calmer and more intimate than the Victoria Street spot, which is known for its loud atmosphere and occasional bar-top dancing. Mercadito’s not a second Los Hermanos, but a considered counterpoint that reflects wider changes in Melbourne’s Mexican food scene.

Signatures are the ceviche, aguachile and a Christmas-season staple: bacalao. The dish sees Norwegian cod desalted for 48 hours, then cooked slowly with tomatoes, garlic, olives, pine nuts, potatoes and chillies.

Tacos feature. But rather than come ready-to-eat, they’re served like they are at the Mexican taquerias: hot tortillas, salsa and fillings arrive on the table and diners assemble their own.

The drinks list starts with wine and features a handful of tequila-centric cocktails. Mercadito intends not to showcase a history of Mexican cuisine, but to reflect it right now.