At Mexico City’s many torta de chilaquiles shops, stewed meats, requeson (a ricotta-like cheese) and deep-fried tortilla strips are shoved into crusty bolillo rolls. The popular stalls are the main inspiration for Cumbé, by Aussie chef Ross McCombe and business partner Rafael Bravo. The duo met in the Mexican capital, where McCombe runs a successful taqueria and Bravo owns Melbourne-style cafes.

At Cumbé they’ve recreated the torta de chilaquiles magic with La Tortilleria totopos, That’s Amore ricotta and tiger rolls from Dat Thanh. Protein options include panko-crumbed chicken thighs, egg and vegan cheese, but the main character is the Yucatán speciality cochinita pibil, or slow-cooked pork. It’s marinated overnight in achiote, sour orange, guajillo and other chillies, before roasting for 14 hours, until deliciously soft.

The cochinita also goes into Cumbé’s house-made pies. Others are filled with beef, black bean and earthy morita chilli; and roast pumpkin, lentils and ricotta. The house-made caballo muerto aka “dead horse” aka tomato sauce is a must.  

Coffee comes from local legends Market Lane and Seven Seeds, brewed as espresso, batch brew and coffeechata, a mix of espresso and house-made horchata. Pair with house-made biscuits and pastries from Suburbia, if you’re after something sweet.