Agusta Triwahyu learned to make gelato with a friend's relative while holidaying in Rome. She didn't have any ambitions beyond winning the dessert stage at dinner parties or sugaring-up her future kids.
But when she came back she started wholesaling to cafes and restaurants and in December 2017 opened Beku - which means "frozen" in Bahasa Indonesian.

Inside, Triwahyu draws on South-East Asia to make durian gelato and another flavoured with teh tarik, Malaysian condensed-milk tea. For vegans, there's yuzu and blueberry, and coconut sorbet with jackfruit bits.

Chocolate, vanilla and raspberry are also stored in the counter's recessed pozzetti tubs, if you can't go past the classics. Just don't leave without trying our favourite, the aromatic Turkish delight. The flavours change monthly.

As we've come to expect from Melbourne's new-gen gelaterias, everything made at Beku is free from artificial preservatives and colourings, though the gelato does contain a natural vegetable-gum stabiliser.