Etta was always supposed to be a little Lygon Street wine bar. But its runaway success turned it into one of Melbourne’s best restaurants – with all the expectations that come with that.

Daphne is take two for Hannah Green’s vision of an approachable neighbourhood diner. It’s in the former Bar Romantica space, just a few doors down from Etta. Her casual approach started with the design for the 125-seat venue. Fans of Bar Romantica – and Cafe Romantica before it – will have an uncanny experience when they visit Daphne. It’s almost completely different, but it somehow feels familiar.

The menu shifts around with the seasons, but there’ll always be pasta, a burger and a steak.

Suppertime is a good opportunity to investigate the cocktails. It’s a ripping range, with classics done well and some experimental glasses rotating through.