Tenko

Nicholas Oliveiro is the sommelier behind Brunswick East hideaway Tenko Sake and Wine Bar – his first solo venture after two decades in hospitality. The Lygon Street bar pays homage to the previous occupant of 12 years, Brunswick East Wine Store. Just inside the door is an intimate bottle shop whose curved plywood shelves are lined with Oliveiro’s personal favourites.

Further in, the space features a green-tiled bar with a polished wooden counter, where Oliveiro runs a seamless show, pouring drinks and running plates single-handedly. Light wood panelling stretches up to a crimson ceiling hung with noren curtains, while a paper light box casts a warm glow over the 10-seat bar.

The saké list is adventurous. Instead of drowning visitors in jargon, it’s arranged in chapters by mood and story, moving from easygoing staples to rare vintages such as a 1991 Kidoizumi Kokin. The food likewise skips the usual script. That means comfort-led dishes like a rich udon carbonara and a golden Welsh rarebit made with saké, Vegemite and yuzu kosho.