Hellenic Republic Brighton

Hellenic Republic Brighton is the third in George Calombaris's chain of accessible and hearty tavernas; joining locations in Brunswick East and Kew.

Inspired by its beachy locale, the ceiling and columns of Hellenic Republic Brighton are festooned with thick lashes of ecru-coloured marine rope. That's complimented by the thatched wooden chairs – painted in licks of blue and white – which sit next to to marbled tables. The brick walls are painted over in white, letting the sun wash into the restaurant through large arches and wall-to-ceiling windows.

Calombaris and executive chef Travis McAuley have composed a more health-focused menu, inspired by the Mediterannean diet, which stipulates a 4:1 ratio of vegetables to meat. Lamb chops and shoulders still come in half-kilo orders, but they're joined by more vegetarian-friendly options than ever. There's roasted cauliflower, fried zucchini, flame-grilled tomato and, of course, the Cypriot grain salad.

The dessert menu is less health-conscious; with highlights including the sweet and flaky baklava and the loukoumades (Greek doughnuts), which are drizzled in honey.

Ouzo-drinkers of all experience levels will appreciate the drinks list. There are varieties without aniseed, subtler tasting options for first-timers and punch-packing selections for experts of the Greek spirit. Wine comes predominantly from Greece too, with plenty of red and white varietals to choose from.

Updated: February 11th, 2020

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