When David and Camy Lee migrated to Melbourne from Shanghai in the '70s, they opened a dumpling house in Chinatown. The generous serves, cheap food an no-frills service quickly won them a devoted set of fans.

After 10 years in the CBD, the couple sold the business and moved their shop to Box Hill, a then-burgeoning suburb with a growing Chinese population. Since then, David and Camy’s dumpling house has developed a cult following among locals and workers in nearby offices. Sure, the leather booths may be dated and the service is somewhat aloof, but the distinctive waft of black vinegar is a sign of one serious dumpling institution.

There are 18 (steamed or fried, beef or pork, vegetarian or prawn, soup or dry) dumpling varieties on offer. And if none of that suits, the Shanghai fried noodles is a fail-safe option. And the chewy chili-oil tripe is perfect for intrepid eaters.