The first thing most customers at Tru Bru notice is the vast plasma screen hanging above the counter. It displays information about the 20 craft beers and ciders on offer, including producer, style, relative bitterness, and price. The list changes daily, but ales always leave the store the same way: in reusable glass or plastic vessels termed “growlers” (1.89 litres), “squealers” (950 millilitres) or “whistlers” (475 millilitres).

It's a very sophisticated version of owner Anton Sagan's formative years in Russia, where it's normal to take an old plastic bottle to a bar, fill it with tap beer, and take it home. Tru Bru patrons pay for their initial bottle, but subsequent visits allow them to swap it for a full one, paying only for what's inside. Best of all, there are free samples to help with decision-making, and a well-stocked cheese cabinet to match.

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