Whenever Melbourne gets even the slightest spot of good weather every Yarra-side bar is packed. Long-serving bar Riverland became so popular it took over the premises next door and opened a spin-off: Pilgrim.

If you’re a fan of Riverland, or any of the group’s other venues, such as the Boatbuilders Yard or the General Assembly, expect the same polished formula at Pilgrim.

The bar takes full advantage of its waterfront location, with generous outdoor booths and tables all positioned for views of the River. In summer each table is shaded, and in winter there are plenty of outdoor heaters.

As at Riverland, Pilgrim operates out of the vaults underneath Federation Square. But where Pilgrim’s outdoor area is bright and spacious, inside things are more intimate; the bluestone and exposed-brick walls make the space moodier.

There’s a familiar range of crowd-pleasing beers, and a wine list that focuses on Australian producers. The food menu has a similar approach: there’s a platter of South Australian cheeses, lamb ribs seasoned with bush spice and salt bush, and a chicken parma toastie.