Molly Rose is located in a narrow warehouse. Go past the roller door and it’s a space filled with industrial bare timber and dark iron surfaces, playing off against more artistic touches. Then take a seat among the giant stainless-steel fermenters and grab a beer that was tapped metres away from where it was made.

Founder Nic Sandery is one of the most talented and creative brewers in Melbourne. In addition to nailing basic styles, he makes beers that combine historical styles with inventive new takes. That approach shows up in brews like the Beer By A Winemaker, which blends a sour ale with the notes of white peach and grapefruit you might find in a chardonnay. Other past beers have included a sour beer brewed with Proud Mary and a peach-infused French farmhouse ale matured in vintage brandy barrels. As for the rest of the drinks menu, there are three to four taps pouring wines from Pacha Mama, owned by Sandery’s partner, Callie Jemmeson.

In 2023, Sandery punched a doorway in the wall and opened a schmick restaurant-like space next door, designed by the star firm Mitchell and Eades. It now serves an elevated pub menu including a kohlrabi parma; a chicken schnitzel with sauerkraut, a pan-fried barramundi with sauteed potatoes and more.