When Mamasita opened on Collins Street in 2010, it didn’t just serve Mexican food; it introduced Melbourne to the diversity of the country’s cuisine. Fifteen years later, the queues down the stairs have reached a more manageable length, but the energy and flavours in the first-floor dining room remain as vital as ever.

Under current owner Joss Jenner-Leuthart and executive chef Jimmy Garside (ex-The Apollo), the kitchen continues to dodge Tex-Mex (you still won’t find nachos and burritos here). Instead, it’s all about elotes, frijoles, tostadas, flautas and more. The focus is on simple, produce-driven plates and delicious things served in house-pressed tortillas.

The cocktail list, sharpened by Eduardo Conde (ex-El Primo Sanchez), leans heavily into agave, with fresh limes pressed daily for the signature Margarita Mamasita and Yuzu Paloma.

Despite several updates over the years, those grand old windows still look down onto Collins Street, and the black-and-white tiles still shine underfoot. Today, Mamasita, which means “hot babe” in Spanish, looks better than ever.