Jayda, located on the ground floor of a 1930s art deco building, is an opulent cocktail bar by Shane Delia, the chef and restaurateur behind top Middle Eastern spots Maha , Maha East and Maha Bar.

It’s split into two rooms: at the front, a sophisticated bar with dark high-top tables; a chandelier of transparent evil eyes ; red orb-like lamps; and a curved green bar with a black-marble top. Further back, through a glistening archway, is a moody lounge room filled with sultry velvet sofas. Delia worked with painter Scanlan & Makers to curate custom wall finishes – with four layers of paint – inspired by the tobacco-stained walls of European cigar lounges. Booming in the background is a mix of Habibi funk (an Arabic funk genre that had its heyday in the ’70s), hip-hop, and ’90s beats – all curated by Northside Records.

Cocktails are the star of the show here, with several original drinks by Orlando Marzo, the 2018 World Class Bartender of the Year , who Delia has been friendly with for more than a decade. Many are pre-batched for speedy service.

A signature Strawberry Cream Negroni is made with rosehip, blackberry leaves and dehydrated yoghurt. You’ll also find the Summer Sour that includes amaretto, and arak from Lebanon; a spiced Highball with fino sherry; and a Mediterranean-inspired Espresso Martini, served either on the rocks or with saffron cream poured over the top.

Food-wise, the focus is on imaginative Middle Eastern-inspired bar snacks. Cured meats are served with spongey za’atar focaccia; braised beef borek buns are flavoured with turmeric and tamarind; tarts are filled with kingfish, finger lime and taramasalata; and there are crisp spiced lamb-and-Aleppo-pepper cigars.

Come hungrier for oozing basturma and kasseri cheese toasties and Delia’s favourite dish: the “after-service sandwich”. It’s a tribute to the staff meal the Maha crew makes, stuffing crispy, bottom-of-the-pan pieces of the iconic 12-hour roasted lamb shoulder into fluffy bread rolls. The version at Jayda is caramelised lamb packed into flaky pastry, served with a lamb-jus dipping sauce and shoestring fries.