There’s a collectors’ feel about tiny Bar Lourinhã, an if-you-know-you-know institution that’s been doing its thing since 2006. We think it might have something to do with the amazing array of bric-a-brac lining the walls behind the polished timber bar.

There are strings of chillis, ornamental teaspoons, fans and many tiny paintings, all crammed in and reminiscent of a bowerbird nest. When you nab a spot at the busy bar you’ll never run out of conversation; all you have to do is look at the wall.

There’s much more to talk about than just the decor though. An array of produce-led sharing plates – served with Iberian flair – range from yellow tail kingfish pancetta to grilled veal tongue with broad bean labneh.

Don’t be fooled by the menu's considered length. If you take a moment with the chatty waiters you’ll be astounded by a long list of specials that doubles the list of offerings, and most items can be ordered by the half-serve.

French, Italian and Spanish drinks dominate the hefty list. But just when you thought you had it pinned, German, Scottish and Japanese drinks turn up in the mix. It’s an eclectic collection in so many ways, and it draws a crowd just as varied.