Find the neon Martini sign on Toorak Road, then enter a discrete concrete doorway that’ll lead you down a flight of stairs into a subterranean cocktail bar with space for 45 people. This is Backroom, the younger sibling of vegetarian restaurant Lona Misa inside luxury hotel Ovolo.

The single-page menu lists mostly classic cocktails: Dark’n’Stormy, Tommy’s Margarita, Tom Collins and so on. There’s also a small edit of packaged beers and Australian and European wines.

The food menu is entirely vegetarian and made for drinking, with plenty of salty and fried items. Choices include potato bread with whipped Vegemite butter and shiitake anchovies, and a Fontina pizza with truffle mushroom duxelles.