ATR Wines is the culmination of a 10-year journey for winemaker Adam Richardson. He spent the better part of a decade in corporate wineries, before he and his wife Eva splashed out on the family’s Hard Hill Road property in 2005. The first vines of shiraz, riesling and petite sirah were planted soon after; grape varietals that savour the slow-ripening climate and the mineral-rich terroir unique to the region.

These days, ATR is one of the few wineries in the Grampians to boast nebbiolo vines, and the only one to grow the lesser known tannat and petite sirah. The winery’s snazzy tasting lounge is the best place to try the deeply expressive range, which strikes a balance between heritage styles famous to the region, and livelier modern blends you’ll not find elsewhere.

Visitors can sample the vibrant range in a tasting flight matched with Victorian smallgoods and dairy. Navy-coloured velvet banquettes line the small open lounge area, which flows onto the timber deck with views of the property. Live music strums away out here, but the backdrop of eucalyptus-studded bushland is plenty captivating on its own.

ATR Wines is a short drive from Great Western’s big-ticket vineyards and historic town centre. The lounge is petite, so make sure you book ahead to reserve a spot.