Molli, by Nathan Toleman and the Mulberry Group (Lilac, Hazel, Dessous), represents something of a full-circle moment for Toleman. The restaurant is across the road from where the hospo veteran opened his third venue, Three Bags Full, in 2010.

The space features pendant art deco globes and dimmable strip lighting behind the banquettes, and abundant greenery and antique furniture throughout. French wooden sideboards with parquetry inlays, gilt-framed mirrors and oil paintings sit alongside thrift shop curios. The restaurant has a rooftop function space with raised potager beds, chickens and city views.

For breakfast choose from woodfired baked beans, housemade yoghurt granola, sausage muffins and more. As the day progresses, pick at breads, dips and pickles, or reach for a tartine or smorrebrod – both open-faced sandwiches – piled with the likes of beef tonnato, avocado and poached egg, and smoked chicken with chickpea miso. After sunset the Mulberry Group’s farm, Common Ground Project starts showing up big time, with seasonal veggies dominating the sides and salads selection. Meat comes from standout producers such as Hazeldenes Chicken and Flinders Island beef.

The drinks menu shows an uncommon creativity and breadth, with numerous house-made ferments including kefir, kombucha and soda complementing a strong non-alc cocktail section and a small but exciting wine list.