Michael and Pippa James’s Urbanstead is the sequel to their original Tivoli Road, since sold but still one of Melbourne’s best bakeries. The name is a play on the word homestead, but recognises most people live in cities now and don’t grow their own food. The aim here is to support small farmers and localised food.

Bread is the star. Every loaf is naturally leavened and made with Victorian flours, specialty wheats and seeds. Hot items draw inspiration from British bakeries, like Urbanstead’s take on a traditional Cornish pastie, made with organic steak, swede, potato and onion. 

Daily spelt galettes come sweet and savoury, with flavours changing seasonally. Laminated pastries include croissants and a black-garlic-and-cheese scroll. To minimise waste, Market Lane coffee is filter or pour-over only. There’s no espresso machine, and no disposable cups. 

The fit-out is rustic and unpretentious. There’s one communal table, handmade mugs by Abbotsford ceramicist Mayfield Studio, an open kitchen, and much of the furniture is pre-loved.