Dear Darnell’s is a thriving bar and diner set in a former trading post. The venue is decorated with eclectic artefacts that add to the vintage feel, but the centrepiece is undoubtedly the circular bar. Above it, the head of a windmill – sails, windshaft and all – slowly spins, circulating air round the room.

The food menu is regularly updated, with local produce making up the bulk of the offering. Think charred octopus with smoked almonds, saffron and cos; woodfired pizzas; a classic chicken schnitzel served with a lemon and parmesan sauce; and summer gnocchi with a velvety vermouth cream and kale. The menu focuses on smoke and fire, thanks to a well-aged recycled-brick oven.

To drink, there's a clutch of classic cocktails, as well as some seasonal creations. Beers include a hazy XPA by Pirate Life, a CBCo IPA, a seasonal tap and a house lager that more than holds its own among the bigger names. And the extensive wine list features strong representation from vineyards across the Margaret River region.

Dear Darnell’s is co-owned by Andre Chabot and Henry Le Fanu, who also run cult Margaret River outfit Yonder Bar.