There are restaurants that talk about sustainability, and then there’s Arimia, an ambitious and inspiring cellar-door restaurant that walks the walk. Found at the end of a dirt track in Margaret River’s north, this off-the-grid restaurant both celebrates and protects its pristine south-west setting.

The property raises its own trout in creeks that fill following winter rains. A biodynamic garden was established at the start of 2019. Rare-breed pigs feed on kitchen scraps and arum lilies: a smart, resourceful and chemical-free way to battle the invasive plants.

On the plate, this softly-softly approach translates to big-flavoured dishes with a strong sense of provenance and environmental responsibility. Bity tagliatelle is sauced with a deep pork ragu and locally caught whiting and air-dried duck breast are cast as the heroes of Japanese-accented small plates. Vegetables also enjoy star billing on chef Evan Hayter’s menu: hello, sun-chokes with chevre and old bread.

As far as souvenirs go, bottles of Arimia wine, naturally, a given, but also consider the estate honey and olive oil.