Wayfinder Opens a Subterranean Winery and Restaurant in Margaret River

Eight years after it was founded in 2018, regenerative Margaret River winemaker Wayfinder recently opened its stunning new winery and cellar door on a perfect Djilba (“first spring” in Noongar) day, with the restaurant not far behind.

“It’s hard to believe this beautiful, modern space where we are now standing was once muddy, disused ground,” says CEO Paul McArdle.

The new building, courtesy of Kerry Hill Architects, was built into the property’s turkey-nest dam for a design that’s deeply rooted in the natural environment.

“We needed something that aligned with our commitment to sustainability, something understated and elegant – a building embedded into the landscape,” McArdle says. “Right from the beginning, the architects knew this was where we had to build.”

The rammed-earth, partly subterranean design utilises natural thermal regulation for temperature control. Its raised backend also allows for a slanted roof with a comprehensive solar array, while supporting Wayfinder’s sustainable gravity-led winemaking process.

The team manually sorts and destems the grapes on the upper lever of the two-storey production facility before funnelling them into tanks below, where it’s cool. “Using gravity in the production process is a huge benefit in winemaking, especially for red grape varieties,” says head winemaker Andrew Trio. It means the winery can avoid pumping – a rougher process that risks over-extraction, resulting in wines with more aggressive tannins. “Getting grapes into the tank as gently as possible is the goal. We want wines that are pared back and textural, with a high level of detail.”

The design of the cellar door and restaurant is also inspired by its surroundings, with a light-filled space featuring Australian timbers, natural marble and works by local artists. Here, those doing a guided wine tasting get a clear view to the winery’s barrel room below, while diners can look out over Wayfinder’s certified organic vines and native plantings.

The kitchen is led by executive chef Brendan Pratt (ex-Vasse Felix, Parker Group), who mostly works with produce from the property’s one-acre organic market garden. Head gardener Amy Dyson (ex-Glenarty Road) tends to sustainably grown heirloom vegetables, herbs and edible flowers, with an orchard on the way.

“Amy updates me on what’s available,” says Pratt, “so there’s always three-week knowledge of where we’ll be at, but we’re also moving daily with what we receive and we just have to be creative. Something on the menu might say ‘barbeque winter greens’, and that may be fiolaro, red mustard leaves or cabbage leaves. While that might sound a bit vague, it gives us the flexibility to use what we’ve got and what’s good.”

Pratt is also working with local producers like Wagin Duck, Revolution Fisheries in Augusta and The Farm House in Margaret River, while Wayfinder’s own regeneratively farmed lamb will be available in the near future. Right now, you can expect plates like stuffed Esperance scallops with nori, smoked eel and tosazu jelly; duck breast with candied parsnip and a duck leg and parsnip parmentier (a French cottage pie); and, for dessert, Jerusalem artichoke mille-feuille with caramel made from the winery’s chardonnay lees.

Visitors can opt for the five-course set menu ($150 a head) or order à la carte. Light bites are available in a casual lawn area with blankets and beanbags for lounging. At the cellar door, tastings of the winery’s Swell Season and Wayfinder ranges are on offer for $15 to $20 per person. From October the venue will offer guided tours of the market garden and a range of behind-the-scenes winery experiences with Trio.

Wayfinder Winery & Farm
381 Brockman Road, Cowaramup
(08) 9575 2291 

Hours
Restaurant
Wed–Sun 11.30am–3pm

Cellar door
Daily 10am–5pm

wayfinderwines.com.au
@wayfinderwines