Words by Jackie Zhou · Published on 22 Oct 2025
Those tapped into the fashion world know that the most exciting sartorial happenings take place away from the main spotlight. Emerging talent brings fresh ideas and daring to fashion, and independent runways are where they shine brightest.
This Melbourne Fashion Week, the Emerging Artists Collective (EAC) is showcasing on a runway the designs of 28 independent fashion designers. Over its four years, EAC has become known for hosting not-for-profit runways and exhibitions that highlight up-and-coming talent from Melbourne and beyond.
Last year, tickets to EAC’s runway sold out overnight. There’s an addictive quality to the passion and creative energy in these rooms. It’s here where grit, creativity and experimentation flourish. Fashion grows from the roots up, and movements like EAC push the industry forward.
Here, EAC’s founder Kat Stevens and the designers featured in her upcoming Melbourne Fashion Week show, The Future, tell us about their labels and where they see the future of Australian fashion.
What’s your design philosophy?
EAC was created from my genuine passion to uplift creatives. After completing my arts degree, I left university feeling disheartened – it felt like there were very few accessible platforms for emerging artists to gain recognition or build meaningful connections. That experience inspired me to start EAC as a space where emerging artists could showcase their work, in an environment that is safe, inclusive and nourishing.
What makes Australian fashion stand out?
We don’t feel as boxed in; we feel the wild side of the creative industry. The industry is becoming less conservative, letting new designers run wild. They are less pressured to conform to global fashion standards and produce work with a raw, expressive energy.
What needs to change about the local fashion industry?
Fairness needs to be addressed. There is a lot of selective paying happening in the industry. Everyone deserves to be paid for their work – when only some people on a project are compensated, it creates a sense of inequality, reinforcing the idea that certain creative roles are more valuable than others.
EAC is still in its early stages. For now, everyone is working voluntarily, including myself. But as soon as we are in a position to change that, setting a standard of equality will be a priority. Who are some of your favourite underrated local makers and designers?
Karma Corbett and Chelsea Farquhar are two I always come back to – I’m constantly in awe of their uniqueness and creative perspective. Ineska is really standing out, especially with her cellphone shoes. Pkopz also has a new collection debuting on our runway that’s sure to turn heads.
What’s your design philosophy?
With a background in fine art, making clothes comes from a place of play, learning and collaboration. I have a DIY ethos – from making the pieces to photoshoots and image-making, I’m always getting involved and learning multiple skills.
What needs to change about the local fashion industry?
Australia needs a nationally recognised code of practice. Independent fashion workers collaborate constantly and should have a guide that recommends pay rates and work standards so they aren’t left vulnerable, overworked and underpaid. Currently, we have to negotiate our own pay rates, often with limited financial negotiation skills and without a standard to follow.
I would love to see the National Association for the Visual Arts include fashion in its code of practice or a board of industry experts create a document of guides and recommendations for independent fashion workers.
Who are some of your favourite underrated local makers and designers?
Cadell Canute , Tricote , Midheaven and Outcast Goods.
What’s your design philosophy?
Beyond being just garments, I want my designs to create an experience while remaining wearable, and to be something that transforms how the wearer feels. Elements of art, nature and architecture always seem to find a way into my work, whether it’s through silhouette, texture or mood. My work is grounded in a bold, sculptural aesthetic through avant-garde silhouettes and multidimensional designs that exude a strong feminine essence.
What makes Australian fashion stand out?
Australian fashion has a fresh perspective and a unique energy that highlights rich narratives. It feels elevated, independent and authentic. Designers here have the freedom to experiment and push boundaries while maintaining a focus on wearability.
What needs to change about the local fashion industry?
I would love to see the fashion industry provide more opportunities to support the growth of emerging designers and help them reach wider audiences while building solid foundations. I also hope Australian fashion continues to expand and gain international recognition. Despite our distance from major fashion capitals, we bring a vision and identity that deserve to be seen and appreciated.
Who are some of your favourite underrated local makers and designers?
I’ve been loving the work of Sydney-based designer Rube Pedder. She has such a distinct aesthetic and her designs feel experimental while maintaining a sense of sophistication and edge, which I really admire.
What’s your design philosophy?
Valentina Valentino is rooted in legacy, craftsmanship and sustainability. Dressmaking has been in our family for generations; it was taught to us by our grandmothers and great-grandmothers, so making by hand has always been a language of love and resilience. For us, fashion is more than fabric – it’s memory and storytelling. Each garment becomes a way to honour the women who came before us, while creating space for new stories made with care and sentiment.
What makes Australian fashion stand out?
Australian fashion carries an honesty and authenticity that feels unique. Many local designers merge craftsmanship with sustainability in genuinely thoughtful ways, with a strong spirit of community running through it all. It’s less about chasing global trends and more about creating work that feels deeply connected to place and people.
What needs to change about the local fashion industry?
We need more accountability when it comes to sustainability and transparency. Too often, words like “Australian-made” or “ethical” get used as marketing without the actions to back them up. Small and independent designers who are truly sourcing and making responsibly need greater support. Education is also key – helping people understand the true value of a garment so it’s seen not as something disposable, but as something to treasure.
Who are some of your favourite underrated local makers and designers? Two up-and-coming designers I really love are Phillipa Signorelli and Paris Jade Burrows. It’s so exciting to see younger designers experimenting with unique techniques and bringing forward fresh ideas, pushing boundaries in really inspiring ways.
What’s your design philosophy?
When I travel, I look for interesting textures, shapes and colours to mimic in my jewellery. One of my favourite methods is finding a beautiful spot and imagining how it can be translated into jewellery. For example, how the shape of the northern lights can be turned into a necklace or the colours of a sunrise over a mountain into a ring set.
What makes Australian fashion stand out?
When I lived in Canada, the style was definitely more minimalistic and emphasised “perfect” and geometric designs. In Australia, jewellery embraces imperfections and natural textures through a molten style – labels like Megan Moss , Marmalade Gardens and Serpent Rouge embody this philosophy.
What needs to change about the local fashion industry?
The industry needs more transparency in sustainability practices and how things are made.
Who are some of your favourite underrated local makers and designers?
Monroe the Label and Itadaki.
What’s your design philosophy?
Misato Yukimoto blends Japanese aesthetics with the versatility of Western design. Each collection reflects a balance of tradition and innovation, drawing from personal and cultural narratives. My label is deeply committed to sustainability, creating garments that embody calm, focus and intention.
What makes Australian fashion stand out?
The diversity of people’s backgrounds brings in different tastes and ways of self-expression.
What needs to change about the local fashion industry?
Recognition in the industry and community – one of my missions as an independent designer is to educate the value of garments. We need to appreciate what we wear today, as there are many processes and people involved in garment-making.
Who are some of your favourite underrated local makers and designers?
I always love the fashion design student collections – there is always freedom and pure creativity, whereby they’re not commercially restricted.
The Emerging Artist Collective’s show is on October 23. Head to MFW to join the waitlist.
About the author
Jackie Zhou is a freelance writer who lives in Melbourne.
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