Earlier this year, Broadsheet contributor Elliot Baker wrote a piece that asked the question: when did Brisbane get this good? While locals have always extolled the virtues of the River City, he’d noticed hype for the city growing on the national stage. If we were betting folk, we’d put money on this boom continuing as we move towards the Brisbane 2032 Olympics.

A rising tide lifts all ships and the restaurants we’re celebrating below refuse to be pigeonholed. The venues are diverse with a Mexican joint, Cantonese fine dining, regional Japanese fare, a Middle Eastern restaurant and a late-night supper club all claiming spots on our mid-year list. The following five venues – listed in alphabetical order – prove that if you’re serving thoughtful and inspired cuisine, there’s an appetite for it in Brisbane.

Cartel del Taco, New Farm

When Cartel Del Taco opened in late February, Marco Ramirez and Erick Martinez said they expected more than 400 guests to roll through on night one. It hasn’t really slowed down since.

When you consider the popularity of their Hawthorne original, it’s easy to understand the hype. Fan-favourite dishes – like al pastor tacos, octopus tostadas and beef birria – have made the journey from Hawthorne. There’s also a New Farm-exclusive seafood bar and parrilla grill, which have given chef Martinez more creative freedom. New dishes include carne asado taco (grilled marinated rib fillet, melted cheese, salsa molcajeteada, onion and coriander on a corn taco); a seafood tower with kingfish, scallops and prawns; and a 1.2-kilogram tomahawk steak served with smoked chimichurri. The atmosphere is buzzy and feels akin to Mexico City, the home town of both Ramirez and Martinez and where they sourced the furniture and equipment for the venue’s fit-out.

The Fifty Six, CBD

The Fifty Six is the capstone venue inside the heritage-listed Naldham House. It’s everything you want from a new restaurant opening. The chic fit-out comes courtesy of developers Dap & Co and designer Anna Spiro. It’s the sort of warm and inviting space that invites you to linger.

The biggest trump card The Fifty Six has is Singapore-born chef Gerald Ong. Ong’s resume includes Chairman & Yip , the Canberra outpost of Hong Kong’s Chairman restaurant, as well as Sydney restaurants Porteño and Automata. He’s created a menu of elevated Cantonese cuisine.

It’s the latest in a trio of new Cantonese-Hong Kong-inspired venues in Brisbane, including Stan’s and Central. Ong says it’s a natural fit with Queensland and Hong Kong sharing similar climates. He approaches Cantonese cuisine with the same tenets as French cuisine, with a focus on the quality of ingredients, balanced, harmonious dishes, and elegance. The menu includes prawn toast, crispy lemon chicken, sticky cumin lamb ribs, Queensland lobster pao fan, dim sum, roast duck and more.

Kiku, East Brisbane

Couple and co-owners Anzu Tanaka and Yuma Iwami have run a market stall under the name Kiku since 2023, but this East Brisbane venue is their first permanent venture. The pair are serving dishes from regions where they once resided – Osaka, Kyoto and Shizuoka – as well as a clutch of nigiri, sashimi and sushi. Standouts include a Japanese chicken curry and the yakitori. The menu of homely regional dishes made with love is exactly the sort of fare you might find in a quiet Japanese backstreet. It’s a true neighbourhood gem and quite different to anything else we’ve seen in Brisbane lately.

Layla, West End

Star Melbourne chef Shane Delia has made the move to Brisbane. In late March, Delia opened his first interstate restaurant, Layla , a spice-driven diner inside a heritage-listed section of the Thomas Dixon Centre. The moody fit-out comes courtesy of Melbourne-based design team Studio Y.

The menu is classic Delia, but with a tropical twist. Expect small plates like king crab dressed in coriander and lime with charred pineapple; a signature toum-brushed flatbread; and pistachio-crusted quail. Mains lean heavily on seafood with fresh fish such as arak-cured kingfish, and a tuna crudo served with a burnt lime and pickled Turkish chilli dressing. Desserts include a whipped knafeh with pine nut ice-cream, and a watermelon and rosewater granita. A 150-bottle wine list has been designed by sommelier Darcy Curnow to match Brisbane’s subtropical climate.

Penelope, Fortitude Valley

Penelope , a new bistro from the team behind Maya and Il Molo, brings something new to James Street. The space is semi-subterranean and designed like a sunken, mid-century modern living room. Settling in is the name of the game.

Penelope is open until late, with a late-night menu that kicks in after 9.30pm. The kitchen stays open until midnight on the weekends, providing late-night revellers with a more sophisticated snacking option that won’t send them to the kebab shop or drive-through. The menu walks a fine line between classic hotel bistro dishes – steak frites, beef tartare, Waldorf salad – and zhooshed-up comfort food like chicken tenders with caviar and Japanese-style fish-finger sandwiches. The 100-bottle wine list leans on French and Italian drops, as does the concise beer menu and a welcome array of vermouths. There are 20 cocktails on offer – mostly high-end twists on classics – including a six-strong Martini list.

Reporting by Elliot Baker and Kit Kriewaldt.