Eightysix cropped up on the Canberra food scene with a rebellious approach to upmarket dining: loud, brash dishes with a refined edge that have the inner north bistro packed out nearly every night of the week. The team’s south-side counterpart sits within a more suburban setting among high-rise apartments, but the familiar neon glow and chalkboard menu along an entire wall remain. As do dark leather and black furnishings.

There’s a range from small share plates through to larger dishes to choose from. You might start with focaccia and espresso butter, or salt and pepper squid with aioli and a dashi-braised herb salad. A few more pasta options appear on the menu than the north-side venue, including the mainstay pumpkin and mascarpone tortellini with sage and burnt butter; a lamb and olive ragu pappardelle with gremolata and a showering of parmesan; and a lemon ricotta ravioli with tomato and fennel sugo.

Plates of roasted broccolini and kale sprinkled with a crunchy spiced hazelnut crumble atop stracciatella can equally serve as sides or main features. And the cult-favourite banoffee pie adorned with pretzels isn’t going anywhere.

As for drinks, cocktails include the Sicilian Hit, an Italian coastal sojourn in a glass made with limoncello, vodka, Frangelico, vanilla, pineapple and rosemary. If you’re after wine, the list is short but refined, featuring both local and international bottles.