The Lobby Restaurant was an iconic Canberra dining destination in its ’70s heyday, popular amongst politicians and journalists. The site is now home to Japanese fine diner Koto, with a minimalist look and feel that's sympathetic to the old mid-century-style pavilion. A dimly lit interior creates a dramatic backdrop, and a huge bonsai seemingly hovers over an indoor pond. It’s typical of the quality and attention to detail found in all of Adam Elchakak’s venues, including Inka in the city centre and Kazan in Sydney.

Koto’s menu is informed by Japan’s kaiseki philosophy, with skill, seasonality and a sense of place at the heart of the offering. But head chef Shinya Nakano isn’t strictly bound by tradition – consider Koto’s take on nasu dengaku (miso eggplant), augmented with sweet basil and toasted macadamias.

Given Nakano’s pedigree as an alumnus of Nobu and Kisume in Melbourne, an order of sashimi and nigiri is a good idea. The omakase (chef’s choice) platter of 21 pieces – some adorned with truffle, or quickly burnished under a torch – takes the hard decisions out of ordering. Follow with robata highlights of beef short rib glazed with miso, and cauliflower with blue cheese and pepperberry shichimi (a dried chilli blend).

The drinks list is comprehensive, covering Japanese spirits (whisky, sake, shochu, umeshu) as well as local and international wines. The tight but carefully curated cocktail list changes seasonally, and is inspired by traditional Japanese tattoo designs. For example, the Hannya Mask – blending yellow capsicum, mandarin, yuzu kosho, lime and tequila – represents anger, jealousy and transformation.