XO walks the line between fancy and casual. That balance is present in the menu, which sees home-style Malaysian and Vietnamese classics given inventive but respectful tweaks. And on the drinks list, where you’ll find classic cocktails with clever additions. The design, at once comfortable and sleek, completes the impression.

Owners Gregory Lally, Kent Nhan and Anand Kumar Ramakrishna draw on their collective Vietnamese and Malaysian heritage and the cooking of their respective mums when creating the menu. Still, it changes every couple of weeks. You might eat beef tartare that pays homage to the traditional Vietnamese bo la lot, with betel leaf and mam nem (fish sauce). Or a bowl of spanner crab ravioli coated in Singaporean chilli sauce.

You’ll want to order the soft-serve ice-cream for dessert – even though you already get a dessert as part of your set menu. This optional add-on is completely worth it. The flavours change often, but past highlights have included miso caramel and mandarin with calamansi (a citrus from the Philippines).

Although it’s a set menu-only affair, the dining experience here is friendly and relaxed. Ramakrishna can often be found in the dining room saying hi to mates; exposed brick, light wooden panelling and white curtains keep things light and cheerful; and a ‘90s and noughties-inspired playlist makes the vibe feel more fun than stuffy.

With the exception of the sake and champagne ranges, the wine list is all Australian (with a particular focus on bright, light whites). Classic cocktails get a remix here: the signature cocktail, The Weekend, is a great G&T alternative; a zingy combo of gin, chilli syrup, ginger liqueur, crushed lime and cucumber.