The Sails Motel, in the centre of Brunswick Heads, is a retro-cool ’60s building that’s been lovingly maintained. It’s a fitting home for the down-to-earth Saint Maries, a neighbourhood pizzeria Cassandra Hynes and Damian Gray opened on the ground floor in December 2019.

The aesthetic is simple and unpretentiously cool: whitewashed walls arch over red-trimmed windows. The bar is low-lit and stacked with bottles of natural wine, plus local and Italian spirits. Picnic-style tables on the front footpath and a little side deck extend the relaxed, beachy vibe.

About that all-important pizza: the dough is mixed on-site and left to prove for 48 hours. Seafood, meat and other fresh toppings come from local suppliers, but the tomatoes are imported specifically from Italy. It’s this attention to detail that’s earned Saint Maries acclaim.

Seasonal pastas and risottos join gluten-free wild mushroom arancini and a perfectly creamy burrata on the menu, and dessert options include white chocolate and pistachio cannoli, and tiramisu gelato (with the addition of liqueur an optional, but strongly advised, extra).