One of Sydney’s most renowned cafes – an operator that helped propagate Australia’s “breakfast restaurant” movement, is also in Brisbane. In Westfield Garden City.
Devon is one of this precinct’s prime tenancies and is right next to the enormous central water feature. Owners Zachary Tan, Noni Widjaja and Derek Puah are tapping into the food-loving multiculturalism of Mount Gravatt and Sunnybank while supplying an elevated cafe experience.
It’s an 80-seat open eatery defined by pastels and soft furnishings, the better to maximise the natural light that floods into the space. The food is anchored in some of the most popular dishes from Devon’s Sydney iterations (North Sydney, Barangaroo). Try the Croissant Saint Denis, which matches a fresh croissant with a crab and salmon omelette, shellfish bisque and caviar. And the by-now iconic Breakfast With the Sakumas, with miso-grilled king salmon and a smoked-eel croquette accompanied by 63-degree egg, radish petit salad and Kewpi mayonnaise.
Later in the day the menu switches to share plates of squid-ink pasta tossed with blue swimmer crab, king prawns and mentaiko cream sauce. And Wagyu tenderloin with cep puree and sautéed mushrooms. And crisp chicken breast in a mushroom beurre blanc, served with chips and a salad.
For sweets there’s a milk tea sundae and the DD Special – soft serve with hot chips. For coffee, Devon leads with its own blend backed by a rotating guest roaster. Later in the day, the drinks harden with tap beers and an international wine list.