Sandwiched between a defunct topless bar and discount chemist is a city restaurant like no other. Owned by Happy Boy creators Cameron and Jordan Votan, Greenglass opened in November 2016.

To find the dining room, you climb an anonymous flight of stairs and follow a blacker-than-black corridor past the kitchen and into a brightly lit space – reminiscent of a New York-style loft with a white palette, minimalistic furnishings and vast windows. The impression was intended to reflect an “expanse in the city”.

Although there was once a breakfast menu, these days the focus at Greenglass has shifted to lunch and dinner. The menu is French-bistro inspired, in style and affordability – it’s rare for a main to edge past the $35 mark. There’s also a small range of shareable, tapas-style entrees.

But the killer feature is the selection of affordable boutique wines, most of them French. In total, 110 bottles are displayed on the wall, backed by an even more extensive cellar selection. You won't have trouble finding a match for the evening dishes such as eye-fillet steak frites, or roasted chicken with buttery mash potato and onion jus.