Descend a moody concrete staircase and you’ll find yourself in a hidden, cave-like space surrounded by old rock walls. From the team behind Rick Shores and Southside, Central draws its inspiration from Hong Kong kitchens.

Start with dishes like Wagyu beef tartare served Cantonese chu hou-style (in a fermented soybean sauce); or drunken chicken. Follow with dim sum, like scallop and prawn dumplings, Peking duck potstickers, and king crab and prawn spring rolls. Larger dishes include wok-fried lobster noodles and char siu Borrowdale pork.

While much of the menu nods to traditional Hong Kong cuisine, there are occassionally twists, such as a pineapple bun (traditionally a sweet treat served with butter) filled with crispy prosciutto and smoked butter.

The extensive 250-bottle wine list features selections from Australia and abroad, including rare drops from China’s Ningxia region.