At The Barracks in Petrie Terrace, a restaurant named for dirt has taken root. Tellus – taken from the Latin word for “earth” – wears its symbolism proudly. In the middle of the dining room, a single olive tree pushes itself out of the ground, with marble counters, brick and glass, and leather banquettes fanning out around it. For owner Joe Zhu, who also owns West End’s Picnic, the tree is symbolic of his nature-inspired approach to dining.

Mornings start with buttery croissants, glossy danishes, and Paradox Roasters coffee. Later in the day, there’s crisp pork belly, crab katsu, and wild-caught market fish with beurre blanc. There’s also a seven-course banquet , which allows you to sample the length and breadth of the menu.

The wine program includes approximately 80 bottles of new and old-world wines. Looking ahead, the restaurant is planning events with local wineries.