Bar Monte is chic and mature – it’s all maroon, terrazzo and tiling. Then there’s the ice shaver for making Mango Mai Tais, sitting proudly in the middle of the bar. It’s bright blue and dotted with metal penguins and fish.

It’s that marriage of playful twists and old-school hospitality that makes Lorenzo Toscani and his partners Kim Stephen and James Sutherland (co-owners of The Smoking Camel and Light Years) such a good team, first at Pixie, then at Bar Monte Miami and Newstead.

The menu is built around Italian classics and snacky plates, including proven dishes from the trio’s existing venues. Smaller options include the group’s signature anchovy toast with smoked tomato butter, and gnocco fritto served with prosciutto and taleggio. A selection of cold-cuts – prosciutto, mortadella and bresaola – is sliced to order. Pasta dishes are deliberately simple, but the risotto changes quarterly. Mains include an eggplant cotoletta with pepperonata sugo; market fish with Jerusalem artichoke and gremolata; and a steak rubbed with porcini and served with onion and marrow butter.

The drinks list highlights tequila above all else but is balanced with a 100-bottle wine offering from mostly Australian and European producers, all displayed on wall-mounted shelves.