Penelope, the cosy new bistro from the Coats Group (Maya and Il Molo), is surrounded by storied venues like Same Same, Essa and Gerard’s Bistro. Despite the intimidating company, the swish restaurant (in the old Bar Tano spot) manages to bring something new to the neighbourhood.

Its fit-out draws inspiration from grand old hotel lobbies in London, New York and Paris. The menu walks a fine line between classic hotel bistro dishes – steak frites, beef tartare, Waldorf salad – and fancified comfort food like chicken tenders with caviar and Japanese-style fish-finger sandwiches. A late-night menu kicks in after 9.30pm and, on weekends, the kitchen is open until midnight.

The 100-bottle wine list leans on French and Italian drops, as does the concise beer menu and a welcome array of vermouths.