Penelope

Penelope, the cosy new bistro from the Coats Group (Maya and Il Molo), is surrounded by storied venues like Same Same , Essa and Gerard’s Bistro. Despite the intimidating company, the swish restaurant (in the old Bar Tano spot) manages to bring something new to the neighbourhood.

Its fit-out draws inspiration from grand old hotel lobbies in London, New York and Paris. The menu walks a fine line between classic hotel bistro dishes – steak frites, beef tartare, Waldorf salad – and fancified comfort food like chicken tenders with caviar and Japanese-style fish-finger sandwiches. A late-night menu kicks in after 9.30pm and, on weekends, the kitchen is open until midnight.

The 100-bottle wine list leans on French and Italian drops, as does the concise beer menu and a welcome array of vermouths.