When it opened in March 2019, City Winery was just the third urban winery in Australia to open, after Sydney’s Urban Winery and Melbourne’s Noisy Ritual.
After moving into Campos Coffee’s former premises on Wandoo Street, co-owners Adam Penberthy and Dave Cush completely rearranged the old warehouse into a working winery, cellar door and restaurant.
The front area is expansive with high ceilings, concrete floors, and brick and VJ walls. On one side sits a handsome tiled bar; opposite is an enormous stack of French and American oak barrels, all of which house various vintages.
Walk towards the back of the venue and you encounter the 20-seat private dining room, its enormous central table built using wood salvaged from a Woolloongabba Queenslander, and chef Travis Crane’s dry-age fridges already stocked with carcasses. At the back is an intimate 70-seat restaurant, where Crane is using an ironbark-fuelled open fire to cook dishes such as free range pork with polenta and black Muscat grapes, smoked mussels with nduja aioli, and organic Killarney beef served with charred red onion and mushroom.
Still, City Winery is first and foremost about the wine. And they’re not dealing in blockbuster runs of chardonnay or cabernet sauvignon either. Instead, previous vintages have included a fiano and grenache, while this year gewürztraminer, nero d'avola, nebbiolo, tempranillo, sangiovese and riesling are all on the cards.
Otherwise, City Winery hosts tours, winemaker meets and wine-blending workshops. All can be booked online.