Listen to So What by Miles Davis and it’s easy to understand why Kawid “Meek” Brikshavana named his Thai cafe in Fortitude Valley after the track. The tune led to the creation of modal jazz, favouring improvisation over rigid chord progressions.

That same free-form energy is everywhere at So What Stereo. Mismatched furniture, multicoloured walls and abstract art create a retro feel in the space. There are nods to The Simpsons and The Flintstones, JBL speakers and film cameras, most sourced through Facebook Marketplace. The music – largely played on vinyl – is equally eclectic and could be jazz, Radiohead or even nu-metal like Korn.

Originally from Lampang province in northern Thailand, Brikshavana is particularly proud of his khao soi. The dish consists of egg noodles in a rich coconut curry, with either braised chicken or beef, topped with crispy fried egg noodles. The rest of the menu is equally appealing. There’s boat noodles, Chiang Mai sausage, Thai-style scrambled eggs with coal-grilled tiger prawns and nam prik num (roasted green chilli paste), and a grilled beef congee set. Coffee comes from Single O and is available as both espresso and filter.

After dark the space transforms into Kasem Sook Social, a rickety-chic wine bar with a more contemporary menu and even more emphasis on music.