Brent Farrell always wanted to open a cafe. For over a decade the respected young chef and restaurateur poured his heart and soul into Toowong’s 85 Miskin St (formerly Brent’s The Dining Experience).
That’s still very much a going concern but now he, along with partner Kylie Hawkins, can pair it with Slack’s Track – a 30-seat breakfast and lunch stop on Logan Road in Mount Gravatt East.
The name conjures local history. Before 1864, Logan Road was known as Slack’s Track, the Slack family using the rolling thoroughfare to drive cattle south from Brisbane to their property on Logan River.
The cafe’s fit-out conjures this dusty past too: the space is dotted with ancient suitcases, billy kettles and tools, neatly offsetting the crisp modernity of white tiles and painted cement floors.
They’re cute touches but it’s the menu where Slack’s Track will make its mark: Farrell’s mastery of French cooking has long been prized by 85 Miskin St regulars.
He brings that same expertise to bear on Slack’s Track, but with the creativity demanded by an open, minimal kitchen of just a hot plate, grill and sous-vide slow cooker. “It forces you to do something different, almost like creating something out of nothing,” Farrell says. “And I really enjoy being out here, interacting with customers.”
For all-day breakfast there are traditional poached eggs, but served with jamón serrano or smoked salmon, kipfler potatoes and a Béarnaise foam. Preserved truffle and grilled three-cheese-on-toast is beyond simple, but its rich decadence will immediately have you convinced.
Lunch options are heartier: think beef cheek sandwiches, glazed lamb shoulders and mushroom cappuccinos with crusted loaf.
Besides the Slack family there are some more recent ghosts hanging about the place. Jason Coats of the Coats Group (Eleven Rooftop Bar, The Jetty, The Jetty Southbank) had his breakout success here with the iconic little eatery that could, Suburban.
Farrell and Hawkins are trying to do a similar thing: create an outer-Brisbane oasis for locals and interlopers alike. “Suburban cafes are taking off,” Farrell says. “People these days want local options to get a coffee and relax with some breakfast.”